where to shop
find hand-painted tiles with 17th- and 18th-century motifs at viúva lamego ceramic factory (011-351-213-469-692). wonderful table linens, hand towels, and sheets can be had at teresa alecrim( 011-351-346-30-69-342-12-61). the famous “thieves market” at [campo de santa clara] is open from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m tuesdays and saturdays and offers everything from religious artifacts to bullfighting memorabilia.

sights to see
visitors flock to the fanciful 16th-century jerónimos monastery and belém tower, or the castle of são jorge. for a wild ride and a great view of the city, catch trolley number 28. worthy day trips include the world heritage sites of sintra or évora, the pilgrimage site of fátima, or the charming city of tomar, known for its weekly market and its impossibly curvaceous streets.