Trevor Gulliver feels that the small wine producers of France are best suited to St. John’s food. Here are some French selections whose terroir makes them a good match for earthy foods.

Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet Coteaux du Languedoc 2002 ($6)
An unusual varietal from Languedoc; bright green-apple and peach fruit.

J. Vidal Fleury Côtes du Ventoux 2000 ($8)
A Provençal selection with bright, simple, fresh fruit and earthy flavors.

Jean-Michel Sorbe Reuilly La Commanderie 2002 ($11)
A juicy Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire with zippy fruit, firm acid structure, and mineral notes.

Domaine d’Andezon Côtes du Rhône 2001 ($12)
This dense, spicy 100 percent Syrah delivers meaty flavors and a long, chunky finish.

Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils Chablis AC 2001 ($18)
Crisp and minerally with edgy fruit and a long, bracing finish.

Château Clarke Listrac 1999 ($27)
A Bordeaux property owned by the Rothschild family; soft, supple, and inviting.

Domaine Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 2000 ($34)
Lots of finesse and style with clean, racy Pinot Noir fruit, and lovely flavors of raspberry and cherry.

Domaine Josmeyer Gewurztraminer Les Folastries Alsace 2001 ($36)
Enticing spice and rose petal fruit in a riveting white from Alsace.

Mas de Daumas Gassac 2001 ($50)
A lush, floral Cabernet-driven blend with herbs, spices, and power; seductive and lovely.