Olive is the perfect new power-suit option for men because it’s masculine and wearable. Update the look with a black narrow tie with a tie bar, plus a pocket square for polish. The perfectly narrowed pant leg should not be too slim, nor too short — but just right.
Exchange the suit jacket for a distressed-leather jacket. Hand-burnished detailing on the jacket is key because it makes it look as if you’ve had it for years — even if you haven’t. Desert boots with the suit pants always make for a good match.
Before long, he scored a job designing men’s sportswear at J.Crew (with subsequent stints at Ralph Lauren, Gap, then again with J.Crew), where he caught the attention of then-CEO Emily Woods, the daughter of J.Crew founder Arthur Cinader, by wearing his own handmade shirts to the office.
“That was my thing to do on the weekends, go to the fabric store. I got to know the staff, and when I’d order two yards of fabric, they’d give me two and a half,” recalls Snyder, who made more than 20 shirts — with banded Nehru collars; this was the Armani ’80s, after all — at J.Crew, two of which went into production. “I’d get the fabric Friday, sew it on the weekend, then I’d wear it on Monday. I could buy fabric for $25 and make a shirt that looked as good as a $200 shirt.”
Last month, Snyder made his debut at Lincoln Center, the new hub of New York Fashion Week, and this fall he’ll pay homage to his Hawkeye roots when he opens a shop-within-a-shop at Badowers. He’s also investigating a possible boutique in Japan, where he’s revered as an arbiter of the recent Americana revival.
“They know the art of what I’m doing is subtle,” he says, “It’s all about the nuances and the details that go into making something special.”
Michael Slenske writes for W, Modern Painters and Phoenix Magazine. When he first met Todd Snyder, during the designer’s most recent J.Crew tenure, they both had much bigger hair. Google it.