These three new meatmongers challenge the clubby steakhouse standard

BOSTON: Bonfire, 50 Park Plaza, (617) 262-3473
Celebrity chef Todd English, famed for his Mediterranean flare, turns his talents to what’s termed ranch cooking — or global meat preparations. The menu embraces everything from English bone-in beef to Colorado lamb. Yet the South-American-strong wine list, 50 tequilas and mezcals, and taqueria bar fare underscore Bonfire’s Latino accent. Despite the cozy urban setting, the kitchen — particularly its blazing rotisserie firewall — remains the focal point of the scene.

CHICAGO: Keefer’s, 20 W. Kinzie, (312) 467-9525
Some steakhouses thrive on name alone. This new one in Chicago backs its beef with one of the city’s best chefs, John Hogan. The menu contains all the classics, along with Hogan’s signature bistro dishes, significant seafood offerings, and creative specials (don’t miss the bouillabaisse). Even the contemporary space — circular, with floor-to-ceiling windows — defies steakhouse norms and helps account for the throngs that pile in past 5.

UNCASVILLE, CONNECTICUT: Michael Jordan’s Steak House, One Mohegan Sun Blvd., (860) 862-8600
With five restaurants, hoopster MJ has proven no rookie on the culinary court. His latest steak place joins the huge new Mohegan Sun casino expansion south of Norwich, making it a gambling/dining/
entertainment destination. Designer Ilan Walsbord furnished the comfy mahogany-and-leather interiors. The kitchen applies modern thought to meat, turning out rib-eye with chile rub and lamb with blackberry-bourbon glaze. More casual, the adjacent cafe dishes out Carolina soul food. —