Seafood is sophisticated these days. Here are the latest spots to get your upscale fish-house haul.

DALLAS: THE OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM, (972) 759-2277 Thirty just-arrived fish fill the daily menu at the debonair Oceanaire, a deco-retro supper club at The Westin Galleria. With so much catch on offer, the only question is, How do you want it? Choices range from traditional (oysters Rockefeller) to progressive (Asian sauced) to simple (grilled or broiled). Portions are steakhouse worthy, and the atmosphere is upper crust. The chain-in-the-forging also recently opened a link in Seattle.

WASHINGTON, D.C.: LA PERLA, (202) 333-1767 Italian-born chef Vittorio Testa’s new La Perla near Georgetown puts a Venetian accent on sea-based dishes. The fit-for-a-palazzo decor, sporting a fountain, ceramic tile, and imported art, takes you half the way to Venice. The food does the rest, beginning with “treasures of the sea” — mussels, clams, crab, and lobster. Or opt for the spaghetti with crab, clams, capers, and olives. Veal and game dishes bow to landlubbing tastes.

CHICAGO: GLORY, (773) 235-7400 Itty-bitty bungalow-lodged Glory rewards the trek to the Bucktown neighborhood with authentic New England fare from eastern-expat Sharon Cohen. She has a light hand with often-heavy coastal comfort foods like Ipswich fried clams and clam “chowda.” Since blue-plate specials change daily, aim for a Friday night booking to snag a bowl of superior seafood chowder. Failing that, there’s the “lazy man’s clambake” to fall back on. BYOB until Glory gets its liquor permit (call to confirm).