we said...
our recommendations for a wonderful roman holiday

» hotel santa maria, moderate, 011-39-06-589-4626.
"absolutely charming" probably isn't the first phrase that comes to mind when you picture a hotel refashioned from a 16th-century convent, but santa maria truly is. you'll wake up each day amid an oasis of calm, orange trees, and cobbled courtyards.

» zoli massimo bed and breakfast, inexpensive, 011-39-06-3973-3063.
great service, great price, and an owner who loves to fill you in on every detail about his town. what more could you ask for? if you rent the private apartment, views of the dome at st. peter's from your terrace.

» Caffé Greco, inexpensive, 011-39-06-679-1700.
Picture yourself conversing over a frothy cappuccino with keats, byron, or shelley, all of whom sated their need for a caffeine fix at this, the country's oldest coffeehouse.

» Checchino Dal 1887, expensive, 011-39-06-574-3816.
The same family has been dishing out traditional italian cuisine here for five generations. the menu includes 20 to 30 kinds of cheeses and 600 wines, so you're bound to find something you like.

» Tanca, 011-39-06-687-5272.
Anyone with an appreciation for great literature should seek out this literary gold mine. you never know what rare edition you might find. old prints and antiques cram the racks as well.

» via condotti, via bor­gog­nona, and via frattina.
browsing for bargains on all those italian labels you've been craving? traipse over to this trio of parallel shopping streets. you'll still have to splurge, but you can survive on bologna sandwiches for a while in order to strut around in a kickin' new pair of gucci pumps, right?