baking and serving. heat the oven to 400°f. bake the tarts until richly golden and crispy, about 20 to 25 minutes. remove from the oven and drizzle with a generous 1/2 tablespoon of the remaining cajeta into the center of each tart. cool on a wire rack, and serve warm with a spoonful of crema or crème fraiche, some berry salsa, and a little drizzle of the remaining cajeta.

champurrado (mexican hot chocolate)
1 c fresh, smooth-ground corn masa for tortillas or 2/3 cup powdered masa harina mixed with 1/2 cup warm water
3 c water
1 1/4 c (about 6 ounces) chopped mexican chocolate
3 1/2 c milk
2/3 c sugar

in a blender, combine the fresh or reconstituted masa with the chocolate and water. blend until smooth. strain into a medium saucepan, add the milk and sugar, and set over medium heat. stir (or whisk) constantly as the mixture thickens and comes to a simmer, about 10 minutes. this beverage should be served about the consistency of heavy cream - no thicker. if yours is thicker, whisk in a little milk or water. ladle into cups or mugs.

variation: cinnamon atole. omit the chocolate and, along with the milk, add a 3-inch cinnamon stick (mexican canela is definitive here). simmer slowly for 20 minutes to bring the best out of the cinnamon. -

markets to visit
"a good start for making a town's acquaintance is to visit its morning markets," wrote author bernard rudofsky in 1969 in streets for people: a primer for americans. his idea holds true even more today, with open-air and indoor markets making a resurgence across the country. here are a few of the best city markets you'll find, along with web sites with more information.

broadway market, buffalo, new york,
city market, kansas city, missouri,
dallas farmers market, dallas, texas,
eastern market, washington, d.c.,