For a primer in functional-sleek Finnish design, hit the tree-lined boulevard Esplanadi. With a new glass-topped terrace framing the skyline, the classic 1937 restaurant Savoy (011-358-9-684-4020) reigns anew. Famed architect Alvar Aalto designed the eatery down to the signature free-form Aalto vases on the tables. Buy one down the street at ARTEK (011-358-9-6132-5277), retailer of all things Aalto. Stop in for a drink and an ogle of the contemporary design at PRAVDA (011-358-9-681-2060). Stay in the center of it all at the decidedly nonminimal HOTEL KÄMP (from $180, 800-325-3589), a history-rich 1887 landmark dressed in marble-crystal-gilt style, the only five-star in Finland. —