Rack of lamb is one of the defining dishes that upscale restaurants must have on their menus today. Here are a few of the nation’s best.

The superb new chef at New York’s classic LA CARAVELLE (33 W. 55th St.; 212-586-4252), Troy Dupuy, cooks a seared rack with Jerusalem artichokes and thyme jus.

At TRIBUTE (31425 W. Twelve Mile Rd.; 248-848-9393) in Farmington Hills, Michigan, just outside of Detroit, chef Takashi Yagihashi combines a roast rack with the loin and a fricassee of vegetables, polenta cake, and mustard oil.

Chicago’s Paul Kahan of BLACKBIRD (619 W. Randolph St.; 312-715-0708) gives his roasted rack of lamb a Mediterranean swirl with pine nuts, couscous, cucumber, red onion, basil, and Woolwich dairy goat feta.

And in New Orleans, chef “Bingo” Starr of RESTAURANT CUVEE (322 Magazine St.; 504-587-9001) crusts the meat with herbs, roasts it, and serves it with a creamy potato gratin Dauphinois and bay root vegetables.