in rochecorbon, on the north bank of the loire, about 3 1/2 miles from tours unique. make sure to reserve one of the large, finely appointed rooms carved right into the limestone cliffs, each with a great view of the river. the honey-colored walls are rough-hewn natural rock.

in mareuil-sur-cher
la lionniere

1 rue lionniere
for a truly different experience, french hospitality and farmhouse cooking with all ingredients (lamb, goat, cheese, and vegetables) raised or produced outside the kitchen window. in the vineyards, about a half-hour picturesque country-road ride from amboise. call mme. bouland for reservations and directions ("turn at the bakery and follow the arrows").

in avignon
hotel d`europe

12 place, crillon
all of the rooms here are nice, but the older part of the building is more classic.

restaurant la fourchette
17 rue racine
011-33-4-90-85-20-93 this is a small, friendly place favored by locals, just a street away from place de l'horloge.

restaurant l'isle sonnante
7 rue racine
somewhat more upscale, this refined kitchen features local specialties.

in bordeaux
patisserie antoine

19 cours portal 333000 bordeaux
stop here for classic canelés and other similar "road food." open seven days a week.

maison du vins de bordeaux
1 cours 30 juillet
this wine cooperative will guide you throughout the region. the bordeaux tourist office is right next door.

in st. emilion
hostellerie de plaisance

place du clocher 33330
a luxury hotel in the middle of town with a great view of the surrounding vineyards.