Less than two weeks after the news of the discovery broke in the
United States, I flew from New York to Seoul and then hopped on a
MIAT (Mongolian Airlines) flight to Ulaanbaater, the capital of
Mongolia. I dropped my bags off at my room in the Chinggis Khaan
Hotel and grabbed my equipment so I could rush across town to
interview the local team members of the expedition. That's when my
initial shock at the fact that a group headed by a Chicago
personal-injury lawyer and a professor of Islamic history at the
University of Chicago had made this stunning discovery quickly
turned into a panicky dread.
Sitting in an office that overlooked the parliament building and
Sukhbaatar Square, Shagdar Bira, PhD, secretary general of the
International Association for Mongol Studies and a member of the
expedition, began to carefully backtrack from their find. "We are
not sure this is his tomb," he said, exchanging meaningful, furtive
glances with his deputy, Tsogt-Ochir Ishdorj, PhD, department head
at the Institute of History, Mongolian Academy of Sciences. I
convinced myself to assume the best (being ever the optimist) and
hoped that they were merely uncomfortable at the possibility of
being perceived locally as modern-day grave robbers disturbing the
resting place of the country's revered leader. Against his wishes.
Within a day, I had talked Ishdorj into leading my English-speaking
(yet mute) driver and me to their guarded site, deep in the
countryside.
Mongolia is three times the size of California and has about 2.83
million people, about half of whom are concentrated in the capital,
so a journey into the sparsely populated countryside can seem like
a trip back in time. Many rural Mongolians still live the same way
as those who lived during the time of the Khans. They learn to ride
horses before they can walk; they dress in traditional
deels (gowns); and they dwell as
nomads, moving their circular gers
(yurts) from valley to valley, just as their famous ancestor
did. Genghis is omnipresent. Everyone knows the story of his
life, death, and secret burial.