LODGINGCasa Demae, very expensive; (888) 962-7827. "Overlooks the ocean, and is big enough for six couples or three families." Costa Azul Adventure Resort, moderate; (800) 365-7613. "It's very family-friendly and has all of the activities." Hotel La Jolla de Mismaloya, expensive; (800) 322-2343. "Very moderately priced and wonderful."

DININGAdobe Cafe, Mexican; 011-52-322-222-6720. "It's elegant and casual at the same time." Café des Artistes, French; 011-52-322-222-3228. "Everything the chef does is a work of art." Don Pedro's, Mexican; 011-52-329-291-3090. "You get the best view of the ocean here and you can watch the fishermen bringing in their catch of the day." La Palapa, seafood; 011-52-322-222-5225. "On the Playa Los Muertos beach. You listen to live guitar music at night." Le Bistro Jazz Cafe, international; 011-52-322-222-0283. "Great ambience and really good food." Los Arbolitos, homestyle Mexican and seafood; 011-52-322-223-1050. "It's a casual, family-run cafe overlooking the river. And they serve these giant margaritas." Pancake House, breakfasts; 011-52-322-222-6272. "A really charming Mexican feel with an American influence."

SHOPPINGGaleria Pacifico, 011-52-322-222-1982. "Has local Mexican artists and up-and-coming artists." Maria De Guadalajara, 011-52-322-222-2387. "The clothes are mix-and-match, one-size-fits-all casual wear." Jades Maya, 011-52-322-222-0371. "I've gotten some really beautiful jewelry from Jades Maya."

ATTRACTIONSCasa Kimberley, 011-52-322-222-1336. "A historic home you can go and take a tour of; it's really something to see." Splash, 011-52-322-297-0723. "Features a dolphin and a sea lion show." Las Olas Surf Safaris for Women, (707) 746-6435. "Surfing school run by a company that has taught more than 7,000 women to surf." Vallarta Adventure, 011-52-322-297-1212. "During the winter, there are whale-watching tours to see the humpbacks."

ONE GREAT DAY IN PUERTO VALLARTA "On our last trip, my husband and I were out surfing, sitting on our boards off of Punta Mita beach. It was so relaxing and so peaceful watching the sun set over the water. The Puerto Vallarta sunsets are just breathtaking. We'd been in the water about three hours and then the sky went from yellow to golden to bright orange. The water looked like fire, like lava."