"Everywhere you go you can always find tapas. In Spain, we normally move from bar to bar, sampling the specialties of each place."

LODGINGThe Westin Palace, Madrid, very expensive; 011-34-91-360-80-00. "Some say it is Spain's most extravagant hotel." Hotel Ritz, very expensive; 011-34-91-521-28-57. "I would choose either the Ritz or The Palace."

DININGChocolatería San Ginés, churros; 011-34-91-365-65-46. "They've been around since 1894, and have the best churros." De Maria, Argentinean steakhouse; 011-34-91-359-65-07. "They treat you well and it's not too expensive." El Asador Donostiarra, Vasca; 011-34-91-579-62-64. "It's a pretty atmosphere and usually pretty crowded because it's so good." La Bola Taberna, Madrid specialties; 011-34-91-547-69-30. "The restaurant was founded in 1870 and nothing much has changed." Lhardy, tapas; 011-34-91-521-33-85. "There's a restaurant downstairs and private rooms on top." Meson Txistu, northern Spanish; 011-34-91-570-10-06. "You can get great seafood and nice kinds of meat with different kinds of sauces." Sobrino de Botin, Castilian; 011-34-91-366-42-17. "Believed to be the world's oldest restaurant. It was one of Ernest Hemingway's favorites."

ATTRACTIONSCentro de Arte Reina Sofia, 011-34-91-467-50-62. "Works from Spanish artists such as Miró, Dali, and Picasso." l Rastro, no phone. "Flea market established in the Middle Ages." Las Ventas, 011-34-91-726-35-70. "The biggest bullring in Spain." Museo del Prado, 011-34-91-330-28-00. "It's one of the world's greatest museums. The star exhibits are the Velázquez and Goya collections." Parque del Retiro, no phone. "Kind of like Central Park. It's a perfect place to relax, exercise, or get on a boat on the lake." Royal Palace, 011-34-91-542-00-59. "Just to walk around there and see the views and take in all of the tradition, it's unbelievable."

ONE VICTORIOUS NIGHT IN MADRID "I'll never forget the night I spent with the Real Madrid soccer team when they won the league championship. After the game they all get on a bus with no roof. The bus takes the team from the stadium to the fountain on La Castellana, where they celebrate. It's probably about a 20-minute ride, but I'll never forget it. The streets were packed. There were about 250,000 people. It was an unbelievable feeling to be there and see all the people cheering. Soccer is huge in Spain. Golf isn't that kind of a thing, although it's getting better."