Smoke-filled rooms hold a reputation for intrigue. Head for the fun (properly ventilated, of course) in the Lobby Bar at the Casamagna Marriott Resort Puerto Vallarta, where every Monday through Saturday night a master torcedor — professional cigar-roller — teaches the art of rolling a perfect after-dinner smoke. Light up then and there, or take it with you — once you purchase the stogie, you can have your name printed on it, on the house. (800) 223-6388,