"Cutting" refers to diluting bourbon with a little bit of water,
said to bring out the nuances of flavor and nose, depending on with
whom you're drinking (it's an ongoing debate between master
distillers and bourbon connoisseurs). My theory is there's already
plenty of water in there (Kentucky's limestone spring water is not
only the main ingredient, but also the reason bourbon thrives in
these parts). So my half-ounce of Booker's - Beam's top-end,
straight-from-the-barrel bourbon - packs a gut-warming punch as I
nurse its amber glow unadulterated.
From Beam, I head over to Heaven Hill Distilleries in Bardstown,
whose brand-new multimillion-dollar Bourbon Heritage Center, which
opened last year, wouldn't have even been a pipe dream 10 years
ago. The premises, like everywhere in these parts, are dotted with
tin-clad rickhouses discolored with a natural mold called torula,
which thrives throughout bourbon country. It is inside these unique
buildings that bourbon barrels are left to mature, some 20,000 or
so in each. They are, more than any other characteristic, the
defining landmarks of the region.
Tours at Heaven Hill culminate in a high-tech, barrel-shaped
tasting room featuring a chic in-the-round bar fashioned from
cypress wood that was recycled from former fermenting vats and
laminated. Not only is it gorgeous, but it's also synonymous with
bourbon's newfound hipness. I sip on Elijah Craig 18-year-old
single-barrel and Evan Williams vintage-dated single-barrel - the
stars of Heaven Hill's fleet - in tasting glasses as beautiful as
anything made by Riedel. Kentucky law says I can only taste two
half-ounce pours of bourbon per day per distiller while driving the
trail (not a bad law, to say the least), so, afterward, I head to
Maker's Mark in Loretto, where there's no tasting but plenty else
to take in.