Miss Sophie's, inexpensive, 011-420-296-303-530. On the other end of the spectrum from the new Mandarin Oriental is little Miss Sophie's, a minimalist hotel/hostel in the lovely New Town district. It may not have all the creature comforts, but it's still got style, charm, and countless loyal fans. We also love that it's entirely smoke-free.

Dining
Radost FX Café, inexpensive to moderate, 011-420-224-254-776. Don't get us wrong, we love us some beef, but we don't mind going meatless when the options are as delicious as the ones at this popular vegetarian restaurant. Radost, which means "joy" in Czech, was opened by a couple of Americans, but the menu goes global with selections like the Greek salad, Thai noodle soup, Italian cheese pita, and Middle Eastern platter, complete with stuffed grape leaves and hummus.

U Medvídku°, inexpensive, 011-420-224-211-916. Craving an authentic Czech meal? You can't get much more legit than in this cavernous beer hall that dates back to the 1400s. From the goulash with bacon dumplings to the malt-house microbrews, it's the real deal.

Sightseeing
Petr?ín Hill. Perhaps the best way to take in all Prague has to offer is from atop Petr?ín Hill, a beautifully manicured and gardened park 1,043 feet above the city. Climb even higher via the observation tower built back in 1891 to resemble a small Eiffel Tower. To get there, go to Újezd street and take the funicular; it's just been overhauled and is back in business.

Events