"Of course, there's Tipitina's, which is famous for rock-and-roll, New Orleans-funk kind of music. A lot of legendary New Orleans musicians have played there, like Professor Longhair. When you go in, there's a bronze bust of him right in the entryway, which is sort of neat because it's like his house. It's the kind of place where you wear jeans and a T-shirt and go drink beer and listen to the music. Vaughn's is another uptown club, a small house - so small that people end up standing outside. Right outside of the French Quarter, there's Snug Harbor, a straight-ahead jazz club where I started playing when I was in my early teens. Snug Harbor makes great hamburgers, but they also have great music."

SATURDAY


BREAKFAST
"Camellia Grill is the best, man. They make delicious omelets. I've watched them for so many years, but I still can't quite make them like they do. They're real buttery - sort of explosive, coronary material, but they're really good. Then, for dessert - and you have to have dessert at every meal in New Orleans - they have this grilled chocolate pecan pie, which is out of this world. They take this pecan pie, which has chocolate in it, and grill it until it's real hot, then put ice cream on it. It's crazy good."

SIGHTS
"The locals' and the tourists' places are almost one and the same, like Jackson Square and the Pontalba Apartments with St. Louis Cathedral right there in the middle. It's a real touristy spot, but it's just a phenomenal place to be. The history there is amazing. Then you walk right across the street to Café Du Monde and have coffee and beignets. Those are touristy things to do, but I do that every time I go home. People think the French Quarter is sort of a Disney World kind of environment, and I guess the façade of it is, in a sense, because it's almost impos-sible to believe it's got more to it than that. But if you take a bird's-eye view of it all, you'll realize that it's a living, working community. The French Quarter, as touristy as it is, is very much a place where I love to spend most of my time."