Port Royal is another Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed course, owned and operated by the Bermudan government (as is St. Georges), and aimed squarely at tourists. Sitting in the hills on the western shore, the course features three holes that play along the coast and many that overlook the sea. In typical Jones fashion, the greens are heavily bunkered and difficult to approach.

By playing Port Royal early in the morning, I was able to join my wife later for Dolphin Quest, a must-do temporarily located within the Bermuda Maritime Museum in the Dockyard. Dolphin Quest participants, led by trained staff members, interact with dolphins in a carefully controlled manner. My wife found this far more enjoyable than any round of golf she has ever played. Dolphin Quest will return to its regular home at The Fairmont Southampton Princess resort late this year, once Hurricane Gert's damage to the facility is restored.

The fortified Royal Navy Dockyard, which once made Bermuda the "Gibraltar of the West," is easily worth the better part of a day in itself. The island's most-visited tourist site has been converted into a large retail and craft mall, glass-blowing studio, and pottery shop, along with a watersports center for parasailing and a protected snorkeling park. The Bermuda Maritime Museum, set in the old fort, captures its lengthy history with the sea.

RESORTING TO MID-ISLAND
Central Bermuda is noted for its pink sand beaches, fantastic wreck dives, and waterfront resorts to suit every taste - plenty, in short, for my wife to enjoy while I sampled the local links.

Riddell's Bay Golf & Country Club, perched on a narrow peninsula, is the island's second-best course and perhaps its best setting for golf. Five holes play directly down to the sea, and several more run along the coast in this short, par-70 layout. A private club, Riddell's, like Mid-Ocean, is accessible to guests of the better hotels.