Since the hotel is within walking distance of the city's dining and shopping, I knew my wife would be content while I gave my golf clubs a workout.

The crown jewel in Bermuda's golf portfolio is the Mid-Ocean Club, crafted in 1922 by Charles Blair MacDonald, designer of the National Golf Links of America, Piping Rock, and the Yale Golf Course. Easily accessible from Hamilton, the Mid-Ocean Club is not only Bermuda's best course, but one of the best anywhere. With surprising elevation changes, the course climbs, drops, and winds along the ocean, through dense inland vegetation and around ponds for a complete, classical golf experience. Though it is a private club, Mid-Ocean, like the courses of Scotland and Ireland, is receptive to visitors, and the better hotels can easily arrange tee times.

Farther east, beyond the airport, lies St. Georges, a Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed course with an unusual par of 62. With no par-5s and many par-3s, it is a perfect compromise for families, something between a championship course and an executive layout. Routed in linear fashion along the coastline, it affords gorgeous views at every turn.

Do put down your clubs long enough to enjoy Hamilton's dining and nightlife, and to visit its Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, especially if you can't go diving yourself. Exhibits capture the spirit of undersea exploration, with diving equipment and submersibles, a 10-minute simulated dive narrated by Jaws author Peter Benchley, and displays of Bermuda's treasures, shipwrecks, and bioluminescent undersea life.

NORTHWEST PASSAGE
Just steps from Waterloo House is the main ferry terminal - the very best way to visit Bermuda's northwestern tip. A short, pleasant ride across the Great Sound takes you to must-see attractions - and, thankfully, more golf.