While it may not be on the typical
tourist's map, there's a resort just outside of Frankfurt
that's been making a splash for years.
King Chulalongkorn of Thailand, who ruled the Thai kingdom for a
42-year stint beginning in 1868, loved its healing waters so much,
he donated a genuine Thai Sala to its spa gardens (perhaps one of
the first such Siamese temples outside Thailand). Not to be
outdone, Czar Nicholas II, who reigned over the Russian empire at
the turn of the 20th century, personally laid the cornerstone on
the gold-domed Russian church he had built nearby to accommodate
his summer residence here. German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
waxed poetic about its "morning mists" in 1773. Russian author
Fyodor Dostoyevsky (of Crime and Punishment fame) went broke here
in 1867. So why the heck haven't you heard of Bad Homburg?
Ever since the ruins of a Roman bathhouse were discovered here in
the late 1800s, this German playground nestled at the foot of the
Taunus Mountains (30 minutes from Frankfurt by train) has hosted a
virtual who's who of international celebrities, dignitaries, and
others of the upwardly mobile ilk, all of whom come to town to
immerse themselves in the city's natural healing waters. Bad
Homburg's 109-acre Kurpark, or "spa park," features numerous
mineral springs - all believed to be spouting forth water that is
nothing short of miraculous. It was also here that Europe's first
tennis courts opened in 1876, as well as Germany's first golf
course, built in 1889. Needless to say, the well-to-do have been
decompressing here for ages.
Not much has changed in Bad Homburg since then. Stroll its
fashionable streets, flush with sidewalk-crowding cafes and
white-tableclothed restaurants, and you quickly see that this
resort city attracts Frankfurt's rich and famous like the Hamptons
lure New Yorkers. There is a sophisticated, country-club air about
the place - minus the pretension. Bad Homburg's marriage of modern
luxe and regal history is everywhere, though nowhere more so than
inside the Kurpark.