The Russians are believed to have
planted the first grapes in Sonoma in the 1800s. Today, their
influence is still evident in the region's stellar Pinot
Noirs.
In 1775, the Spanish naval lieutenant Francisco de la Bodega y
Cuadra explored the coast of what is now Sonoma County, California.
Blissfully unaware of the coming Sonoma real estate boom, he never
even bothered to set foot on land. Instead, he shrugged and sailed
away, leaving his name to the inlet known now as Bodega Bay, which
was later made famous as the setting for Alfred Hitchcock's
brooding avian masterpiece The Birds.
Since Bodega and his crew neglected to come ashore, the first
Europeans to tromp around Sonoma were actually Russian fur
trappers, who came south from Alaska in pursuit of sea otter. The
Russian influence is still felt in Sonoma. Fort Ross, for example,
was originally a Russian settlement called Fort Russ. Another
reminder of Sonoma's unique link with Mother Russia is the woodsy
Russian River, which flows into the Pacific just north of Bodega
Bay.
These days, the hottest commodity in the Russian River Valley isn't
otter, it's Pinot Noir. The cool, ocean-influenced climate there
seems perfect for this finicky grape, making the Russian River
Valley appellation one of the best Pinot Noir terroirs in the New
World. Here are three of the best. Too bad Bodega didn't stick
around.
WILLIAMS SELYEM 2000 PINOT NOIR
($39)
Like many a rock-and-roll band, Williams Selyem started in a
garage. Burt Williams and Ed Selyem started their winery in a
rented garage in Fulton, California, but their success with Pinot
Noir in the mid-1980s turned them into cult sensations. The wines
were sold by mailing list to a devoted following whose clamor for
Williams Selyem pushed them into the same
good-luck-getting-your-hands-on-these league with some of Napa's
most rarified Cabernets.
When John Dyson - owner of Villa Pillo in Tuscany and Millbrook
Winery in the Hudson Valley - purchased the winery in 1997,
die-hard fans of the Williams Selyem style were in a panic, fearing
that their pet wine would undergo a sea change. Fortunately, the
winery has continued on a rock-solid course. Winemaking is now
under the direction of Bob Cabral. The wines are still sold by
mailing list and the wait is about a year. It's worth it.