2. In a small bowl, combine the grapes, vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well and set aside.

3. Dry the lamb chops with paper towels and rub them on all sides with salt and pepper. Grill the chops until well-seared on both sides and done to your liking on the interior, about 4 to 5 minutes per side for rare. To check for doneness: Cut 1/4 inch into the thickest part of the meat; it should be slightly less done than you like it.

4. Remove the chops from the grill, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve accompanied by the relish, steamed green beans, a salad of cucumber and tomatoes, and grilled pita bread. A selection of three or four good cheeses with some grapes and plain crackers makes an excellent dessert.

Most Americans eat veal only in restaurants. This is partially because it is so expensive, partially because the way veal calves are raised is controversial, but mostly because veal was not commercially raised on a large scale in this country until the 1960s, so we really have no tradition of cooking or eating it at home. But if you get your hands on some thick, meaty veal chops, they not only seem extravagant; they taste fantastic.

Since veal chops are more expensive than high-end steaks, you'll want to take extra care. Remember that you don't want to brown veal as deeply as you would beef. You want a nice sear on it, but it doesn't require the overall deep, dark brown surface preferred for beef or pork. Because they are such a deluxe choice of meat, serve veal chops fairly simply.

Serves 4

4 12-ounce veal rib chops, about 1-inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste

For the relish:

1 pound portobello mushroom caps

1/3 C olive oil

1 T minced garlic