""All cities are defined by the people who live in them,and there's just an independent spirit in a lot of the people wholive in Seattle that is admirable."

LODGINGAce Hotel, moderate; (206)448-4721. "The Ace is small, comfortable, and low-key."Elliott Grand Hyatt Seattle, expensive; (206)774-1234. "It's well-appointed and interesting."

DININGCat's Eye Cafe, breakfast;(206) 935-2229. "A neighborhood place decorated with catparaphernalia. They make everything fresh." Espresso VivaceRoasteria, coffee shop; (206) 860-5869. "It's a good cupof coffee. You know it when you sip it." PalaceKitchen, American; (206) 448-2001. "Has cocktails at thebig bar at the entrance and modern American cuisine once you getinside." Patty's Eggnest, breakfast; (425)743-0428. "Many people argue that Patty's is the best breakfastanywhere." Queen City Grill, seafood; (206)443-0975. "You're going to get seafood in pretty much everyrestaurant in Seattle, but the Queen City Grill does it best."The Rose Club Cafe, breakfast; (206) 725-3654."They have the best organic breakfast in town." WildGinger, Pacific Rim; (206) 623-4450. "Wild Ginger had thefirst satay bar in the country." Zig Zag Cafe,Mediterranean; (206) 625-1146. "It's on the stairway that leads tothe Pike Place Market, and it's really good."