LODGINGClairmont Resort &Spa, very expensive; (800) 551-7266. "Very traditional andgrand and gorgeous." The Clift, expensive; (800)652-5438. "The cool hotel now, which is where I'd stay if I were atourist."

DININGAlioto's, seafood; (415)673-0183. "A real classic." Bette's Oceanview,diner; (510) 644-3230. "Basic diner food, good atmosphere, goodcoffee." Boudin Sourdough Bakery and Café, bakery;(415) 928-1849. "You can get a big, round loaf of sourdough andthey'll scoop out the inside and fill it with clam chowder."Chez Panisse, Californian; (510) 548-5525. "It'slegendary." Chez Panisse Café, Californian; (510)548-5049. "The food is fantastic. It's that Alice Waters magic."Fat Apple's Restaurant & Bakery, breakfast;(510) 526-2260. "Just your typical breakfast place. I usually havescrambled eggs, a waffle, and chicken apples sausage." HongKong East Ocean Seafood, seafood; (510) 655-3388. "Youhave to have the brunch here. It's dim sum. Plus it's right on thebay, so you have a gorgeous view." La CumbreTaqueria, Mexican; (415) 863-8205. "You can't get betterMexican food anywhere outside of Mexico." MagnaniPoultry, deli; (510) 528-6370. "Everybody in the East Baygets their chicken here. They also have different kinds of chickensausages and amazing ribs - all takeout." Peet's Coffee& Tea, coffeehouse; (510) 843-1434. "The best coffeeI've ever had." Rose Pistola, Italian; (415)399-0499. "It's small and hard to get in, but it has really goodfood and atmosphere." The Slanted Door,Vietnamese; (415) 861-8032. "Mick Jagger and Bill Clinton haveeaten there. If it's good enough for them, it's good enough forme."