One has to wonder why the producers of Lambrini Bianco decided to brand and market it, rather confusingly, in the guise of an Italian white wine. It’s actually a quite tasty English pear cider, made in Liverpool, home of the Beatles and the Titanic. Maybe something got lost in the across-the-pond translation, but Lambrini Bianco is actually the top-selling perry brand in the U.K., with roughly 55 percent of the pear-cider market. The company sells something on the order of six million cases a year there, so evidently the Italian-sounding name has a certain marketable cachet. Perry does make a good alternative to light-bodied Italian white wines such as Soave.

Lambrini entered the U.S. market a few months ago with advertising aimed squarely at the “trendy young woman” market. As if real men don’t drink perry? Balderdash! Sure gals love it, but guys worried about their image can always tune to a sporting match while quaffing their Lambrini. I like its approachable, fresh, uncloying flavor, and it goes great with salads of all sorts.

BUYER’S GUIDE


HUDSON VALLEY FARMHOUSE PERRY, $10 per 750 ml
Dry and Elegant
Serve with a cheese course

WOODCHUCK PEAR CIDER, $8 per six-pack
Light and Fruity
Try it with tuna melts

LAMBRINI BIANCO, $4 per 750 ml
Fresh and Umcloying
Perfect with goat cheese and hazelnut salad