$30
San Lorenzo has become one of Rome's trendy neighborhoods, and Uno e Bino seems expressive of the youthful brio of the area, otherwise teeming with pizzerias and beer bars. It's small, with just 14 tables, and smoking is - grazie dio! - forbidden. The food goes beyond the usual Roman fare, with novel dishes full of spice and seasonings. Succulent lamb sits atop fried artichokes, shrimp comes with a tomato aspic, and beef is braised slowly. You must try the tasting of five chocolate desserts.

ZURICH

LE PAVILLION
Ermitage Am See, 80 Seestrass, Küsnacht; 011-41-1-914-4242
$85

Just outside town and set against the beauty of the lake, Ermitage Am See is a jewel-like boutique hotel, and now, with chef Edgar Bovier providing a touch of Niçoise flavors in dishes like roasted scampi with fennel, arugula, and sun-dried tomatoes; cream of chickpea soup with sautéed calamari in a sauce bouillabaisse; and suckling pig with potato purée and sweet-sour sauce, Le Pavillon has happily won its first Michelin star. This is Switzerland, so not to indulge in chocolate is unwise. Have the warm fudgelike chocolate moëlleux with melon, ginger, and mint, or the bittersweet chocolate millefeuille with strawberries. The premises, once a farmhouse, have a country-style posh.

Barometer
16 Glockengasse; 011-41-1-211-5665
$35

A new hot spot in a historic downtown stone building, Barometer seems to be taking a reading on Zurich's young professionals who come to sit here in close, tidy quarters to feast at moderate prices on the kinds of dishes that come from Switzerland's three cantons: salmon saltimbocca with cabbage, roast dorado with orange juice and sage oil, and breast of duck with spätzle and olive tapenade. The restaurant has its own wine label for Swiss bottlings of Pinot Noir, Petite Arvine, and Syrah from the Valais.

MADRID

LA BROCHE