where to stay
the eurpean-style copperwood inn and spa (845-688-2460; from $285, includes all meals and a spa treatment) is a bit on the quirky side, but the sps is tremendous. recently named one of the top 15 wine resorts bywine spectator,the emerson inn & spa (845-688-7900; from $500, includes breakfast, tea, and dinner) is the ne plus ultra of fine catskills accommodations. the mohonk mountain house (800-772-6646; $335, includes activities, three meals, and afternoon tea) is a classic wooden mountain house where jackets are required in the dining room, and afternoon are spent reading on the porch rocker. onteora the mountain house (845-657-6233; from $165), the former vacation estate of mayo mogul richard hellman, is now an intimate b&b. nestled at the base of the foothills, the minnewaska lodge (845-255-1110; from $145, includes breakfast) serves as a luxurious base camp for rock climbers. the nevele grande (800-647-6000; from $85), near ellenville, boasts both robert trent jones- and tom fazio-designed golf courses. formerly the stevensville hotel, the overhauled swan lake resort hotel (845-292-0783; from $115) features 206 newly appointed guest rooms and 20 suites, with more on the way. - l.v.