Our Duck driver, the Admiral Amnesia (known at home as Charles
Perry), proves not only loquacious, but - good news for kids and
adults alike - funny and enthusiastic. The Duck Tour isn't cheap,
but in the company of the Admiral it is worth every cent.
As we course through the streets of Boston, the Admiral, who
appears to be wearing boxers adorned with green sharks, informs us
of many things. We learn plenty of historical facts. We also learn
where Massachusetts Senator John Kerry lives ("The Secret Service
loves it when I point it out").
Proving his ease on the water, the Admiral even lets Cullen and
Graham drive. Lest you doubt his professionalism, I will relay this
Me: "How was it?"
Cullen: "Fun, but he held the wheel most of the time."
That night we eschew the subway and take a cab to the North End and
Pizzaria Regina, recommended by several Bostonians and lauded in a
guidebook as famous "for the humorously brusque service and tasty
Regina's is worth lauding, though there is a substantial line
outside. Inside, Regina's (serving pizza since 1926) is as a pizza
place should be - they serve Black Label in a can, air conditioners
labor futilely, plates are paper, and the mouthwatering pizza
stains them soppy. The pizza is also reasonable, and the
waitresses aren't rude, just busy.
"People come here from all o-vah," says one, passing us by like a
breeze. "We're in the middle of no-weah and people still find
After dinner we wander the narrow North End streets beneath a half
moon, happy light from apartments and numerous Italian bakeries
pouring into the street. Finally, like moths, we are drawn to the
Behind the glass at Bova's Bakery rests a Who's Who of baked
delights: vanilla pizzelles, cannoli, cream puffs. Also behind the
counter rest the Bovas. No chains here.