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Under the Sea


The next day at 7:30 a.m., Elito Arceo maneuvers his 30-foot boat up to that same dock. His Seaduced adventure outfit has been taking people under the sea for over a decade, and Elito knows the ocean floor better than the fish do. We don our snorkels and flippers as we’re whisked away to a spot four miles offshore, where we’ll get to know the barrier reef up close.

I have snorkeled in the United States and off the coast of Mexico, but I have never before seen marine life as active and bathed in as many colors as I do here. Spadefish, stingrays, biblical-size grouper, eels, and nurse sharks -- yes, sharks! -- swim right up to me, and we check each other out. I spend the whole day out here with Elito and Sergio, taking in the rugged wilds of the barrier reef. Sergio and I debrief later that evening at Rojo Lounge, housed in the Azul Resort, a new property in the far reaches of San Pedro.

Sipping a frozen mojito -- the signature drink -- I convey to Sergio that our snorkeling expedition has whetted my appetite for a deep-sea scuba dive even more.

“Not tomorrow, my friend. I have plans for us,” he says.

“But the Blue Hole is calling me!” I say.

“Listen closer,” he replies. “Something else is calling you too.”

“Fido’s?”

“No, something green and lush.”

“Another frozen mojito?”

“There’s nothing frozen about it. But another mojito is not a bad idea. Hang tight and you’ll see.”