The revival proved popular and Hoegaarden was purchased by Interbrew, the large Belgian corporation that controls several international beer brands. (Celis himself moved to Austin, Texas, and founded the Celis Brewery, which was later acquired — and then closed — by Miller Brewing.) Hoegaarden itself is still a classic example of Belgian wit, with spicy tones of coriander and curaçao orange.

BUYER’S GUIDE


Michelob Hefeweizen, $7 per six-pack
Creamy and Balanced
Try it with smoked salmon

Pinkus Organic Hefeweizen, $3.50 per 17-oz bottle
Tangy and Citrusy
Ideal with charcuterie

Hoegaarden Wit, $6 per four-pack
Spicy and Crisp
Great with brasserie foods