Sleep: Choices abound, from the casual and fun Club Peace & Plenty in George Town (800-525-2210) to the Sampson Cay Club (242-355-2034), with its everything-you-need-in-one-gorgeous-setting compound. Want a real treat? Head for the wonderful-and-worth-it Fowl Cay (866-369-5229), a 50-acre private island with a few exclusive villas - your own golf cart and 17-foot-boat included. Come spring, the Four Seasons (242-358-4185) will grace the Exumas with a new resort, spa, and Greg Norman-designed golf course, followed shortly after by a casino, marina, and private homes.

Eat/Drink: Staniel Cay (population 85) boasts the Jimmy Buffet-approved Staniel Cay Yacht Club (242-355-2024) for a great dinner and laid-back atmosphere. For local flavor, try Two Turtles in busier George Town (242-336-2545), where you can eat, drink, and dance to live music under the stars.

Play: The archipelago of Exuma Cays
is a water-lover's playground and the Exuma Land and Sea Park is its crowning glory - 176 square miles of blue holes, caves, exotic marine life, and pure natural beauty.

Local Insight: Folks here are amazingly friendly. Oliver "Bonefish Slick" Munroe on Staniel Cay can set you up with tours, fishing excursions, and the like. Park warden Ray Darville is a walking database on the Land and Sea Park and the Exumas in general.

Vital Stats:
Living up to its name, Long Island spans 80 miles and offers two dramatically different shores - one with powdery white sand, the other rocky and cliff-filled. On an island never wider than four miles, you hardly have to choose between the two.

Claim to Fame: Seclusion, peace, quiet, and raw beauty. Dive, snorkel, fish, boat, windsurf, or kayak if you feel compelled to move.